High Top Fade: How to Grow It, Ask for It and Keep It Level
A high top fade is a tall, flat or rounded top of hair sitting above sides that are faded short. It is a cut for coily and 4C hair, where the hair stands up on its own and can be shaped into a clean block or a soft dome.
The short answer: grow the top to about three to four inches, ask for a high or mid fade on the sides and a squared top, and plan a visit every two weeks to keep the edges and the flat plane sharp. Below is who wears it best, how to ask for it, and how to keep the height from getting lopsided.
What is a high top fade?
It is two haircuts in one. The sides and back are faded, usually from skin or a number 1 guard at the bottom up to the top. The top is left long and shaped into a level, boxy plane or a rounded dome, depending on how you like it.
The fade, which we cut as part of our fade cut service, is what gives the cut its sharpness. Because the top is so tall, the contrast between the long hair and the tight sides is obvious, so any uneven blend shows. That is why a high top works best with a barber who spends time on the line where the fade meets the top. For how a skin fade handles that blend, see the skin fade guide.
You will see it at the shop on teenagers, college students and men who have worn it since the style first came back.
Who does it suit?
It suits men with coily, tightly curled or 4C hair, because that texture stands up and holds a shape without help. It suits oval and rectangular faces best, since the height adds length. Round faces can wear it if the sides stay tight.
On looser curls or wavy hair, a tall top needs more product and more brushing to stay upright, and it will not look as square. In that case a taller textured top with a fade, like a quiff or a curly top, may fit better.
If you want height with less contrast, a high taper fade for Black men keeps the top tall and shortens the sides more gradually.
How tall should the top be?
Three to four inches is the usual starting range. Anything under two inches is a short afro or a twist out, and it will not show a flat plane. Over five inches, the hair is heavier and harder to keep level.
Hair grows about half an inch a month, so getting from a short fade to a high top takes two to three months. During the growing stage, keep the sides faded and the neckline clean so the cut looks planned. Do not trim the top. Use a pick to lift it each day and moisturize so the hair does not break.
If you already wear an afro with a fade, our post on the afro taper fade covers the first stage, and you can step up from there.
How do you ask your barber for it?
Show a photo and use these terms: high top, fade, line up and the height you want.
| Part | What to ask | Guard |
|---|---|---|
| Sides and back | High or mid fade | Skin or number 1 at the bottom |
| Top | Squared or rounded, 3 to 4 inches | Scissors and a comb |
| Hairline | Crisp line up | Trimmer |
| Neckline | Tapered or squared | Trimmer |
A fade is $30 and a haircut is $25. A line up is $16, and many men add it to make the top stand out. Tell the barber how flat you want the top. A completely flat top is a flat top, which takes more time to cut and more skill to keep level.
How do you style and care for it?
Keep the top moisturized, pick it out daily and protect it at night. A tall top has a lot of hair to dry out.
- Wash every week or two with a moisturizing shampoo, and condition the top.
- Use a leave in conditioner or a light cream on damp hair, then pick it up from the roots.
- Do not brush a dry high top. Dry hair breaks, and breakage ruins the flat plane.
- Sleep in a satin cap so the shape does not flatten on one side.
- Use a sponge or a soft brush to refine the shape between visits.
If your scalp flakes or itches under the length, mild flaking is common and a scalp treatment can help. Persistent or painful problems should be checked by a dermatologist.
How often do you need a touch up?
Every two weeks if you want the fade crisp, and every week if you wear it to skin. The edges soften first, and the flat plane gets uneven around week three.
If you cannot come in that often, ask for a mid fade with a number 1 guard at the bottom, which hides regrowth for longer. Keep the top length the same for six to eight weeks, then trim it back an inch to keep the shape.
What can you pair it with?
A high top fade works with a shaped beard, a design in the sides or a longer back. Men who like length behind the ear sometimes combine a tall top with the back left long, which borrows from the burst fade mullet. For a curve at the back of the ear, the drop fade changes how the sides blend.
Ask your barber about the line where the fade meets the top. A soft blend looks natural and a hard line looks like a block. If you are not sure how high the fade should start, low fade versus high fade shows the difference on the head, and a mid fade is a safe choice for a first high top.
Get your high top fade at Lilacroix Barbers
Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, Queens, open seven days: Monday to Thursday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday 7 AM to 7 PM, Sunday 7 AM to 5 PM. Walk ins are welcome, and you can call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait.
See our fade cut service and use the contact and directions page to plan your visit.
Questions readers ask
When did the high top fade come out?
The high top shape became popular in the 1980s and early 1990s and has come back in cycles since. Exact dates are hard to pin down, but it has always been tied to Black barbershop culture.
Can I get a high top fade with 4C hair?
Yes. It is the best texture for it, because 4C hair stands up on its own and holds a clean, flat shape.
How long does it take to grow a high top?
Plan on two to three months from a short cut. Keep the sides faded while you grow the top so it looks tidy.
Is a high top fade the same as a flat top?
A flat top is a high top with a perfectly level, squared top. A high top can also be rounded, so ask your barber which one you want.