Burst Fade Mullet: The Cut, the Guard Numbers and How to Ask
A burst fade mullet is a fade that curves around the ear in a half circle, paired with hair left long at the back of the neck. The top and the front stay shorter and textured, and the length falls in the back.
The short answer: ask for a burst fade with the back left long, tell your barber how many inches you want to keep, and plan a touch up every two to three weeks. It works on straight, wavy, curly and coily hair, and on 4C hair it reads as a bold, shaped cut that holds its form.
What is a burst fade mullet?
The burst is the curved fade that wraps around the ear, usually from the temple around to the back of the neck, and then stops. The mullet is the length behind it. Put the two together and you get a cut with a clean, short sides and a back that hangs.
That contrast is the whole point. The sides are cut tight with clippers, the same way as any fade cut. The crown and the front can be cut with scissors for shape and movement. At the back, the length drops over the collar. On Black hair, the back can be twisted, stretched with a pick or left to puff into a soft shape.
How is it different from a regular burst fade?
A regular burst fade is cut short all the way around. The mullet version keeps the length at the nape, so the fade stops at the ear and the back is not tapered away. If you want the full explanation of the burst itself, read about the burst fade and why it suits a mohawk.
You are also asking for a different haircut on top. A burst fade with a mullet leaves more weight in the back and usually less at the front, so the shape reads as a wedge from the side. If your hair is thick, ask the barber to thin the back so it lies flat instead of standing out.
Who does this cut suit?
It suits men who like a haircut with attitude and are willing to keep it up. It looks best on oval and square faces, because the curve of the burst softens the temples. Round faces can wear it if the top is kept taller than the back.
Hair type
Straight and wavy hair makes the cleanest mullet because it falls. Curly hair gives you a rounder, fuller back. Coily and 4C hair builds up instead of dropping, so the barber shapes the back into a neat taper or a soft square. If you want the burst to show well on 4C hair, keep the front and sides short enough that the fade is easy to see, and let the back grow only as far as it holds a clear shape.
How do you ask your barber for it?
Use the same words every time. Say burst fade, say mullet, and say how long you want the back.
- Sides: a number 1 guard or skin at the ear, fading up around the burst to a number 3 or 4 where it meets the top.
- Back: leave it at the length you want, usually two to four inches, and ask for the ends to be cleaned up.
- Top: scissor cut for shape, with some texture at the front.
- Edges: ask for a line up if you want a crisp hairline.
A skin fade down to the bare skin makes the burst show the most. A number 1 guard is softer and hides regrowth longer. If you want it faded right to the skin, tell your barber at the start, not halfway through.
How do you style and care for it?
Keep it moisturized and keep the back from drying out. The sides are short, so they need little. The back is where the work is.
- Wash with a gentle shampoo and condition the length, then pat dry.
- On curly and coily hair, use a leave in conditioner or a light cream while the hair is damp and comb it through gently.
- Sleep in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase to protect the back from breaking.
- Use a pick or a soft brush to lift the top, and a light hold product for the front.
If your scalp gets dry under the length, a scalp treatment can help; check with a dermatologist if flaking is heavy or lasts.
How often do you need a touch up?
Plan on every two to three weeks if you want the burst to stay sharp. A fade grows out in about two weeks and starts to blur at three to four.
| What | Price | How often |
|---|---|---|
| Fade | $30 | Every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Long haircut for the back and top | $25 | Every 6 to 8 weeks |
| Line up | $16 | Every 1 to 2 weeks |
The back can wait longer than the fade, which is the point of the style. You can come in every couple of weeks for the burst and a line up, and trim the length every month or two.
What are the variations to try next?
Once you are comfortable with a burst fade mullet you can change the pieces. Taller hair on top with a fade around the ear and a long back is the high top mullet, which borrows from the high top fade. A taper at the back instead of length is the taper fade mullet.
If you want the fade to dip lower behind the ear, a drop fade gives the curve more drop and a more rounded finish. Our taper and fade comparison shows how the same ideas look on kids, which is a good test of how short each one cuts.
Book your burst fade at Lilacroix Barbers
Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd, Laurelton, NY 11413, and serves Laurelton, Rosedale, Springfield Gardens, St. Albans, Cambria Heights and Queens Village. We are open seven days, Monday to Thursday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday 7 AM to 7 PM and Sunday 7 AM to 5 PM. Walk ins are welcome, and you can call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait.
Look at our fade cut service and our haircut options, and find the shop on the contact and directions page.
Questions readers ask
Can a burst fade mullet work on short hair?
Only if the back has some length to keep. You need at least two inches in the back for the mullet to read, so if your hair is very short, grow the back for a few weeks first and keep the sides faded.
Will my barber say no to a mullet on 4C hair?
No. A good barber will shape it to hold on 4C hair, usually as a short, structured back that stands in a soft wedge instead of falling flat.
How long should the back be?
Two to four inches is the usual range. Go longer if your hair is straight and falls well, and keep it shorter if your hair is curly or coily and tends to puff.
Does the burst fade need a line up?
It looks best with one, because the clean hairline frames the curved fade. A line up is $16 and lasts about one to two weeks.