Skin Fade for Black Men: What It Is, How to Ask and How to Keep It Sharp
A skin fade is a haircut where the sides and back blend from the length of your top all the way down to bare skin, with no visible hair at the bottom edge. It is the sharpest and most contrasted of the fades, and it is one of the most requested cuts in a Laurelton barber chair.
The direct answer: ask for a skin fade, say whether you want it low, mid or high, and tell your barber what length you want on top. It suits nearly every hair type, shows strongest on coily and 4C hair, and needs a refresh about every two weeks to stay crisp.
What is a skin fade haircut for men?
A skin fade, also called a bald fade, takes the hair on the sides and back down to the skin at the bottom, then blends it up into the longer hair above. The shortest point is shaved smooth or very nearly, so the skin shows through.
The blend happens in a few inches, passing through guard lengths from a 0 or 1 up to a 3 or 4. The smoother the blend, the better the fade looks. Because there is nowhere for a mistake to hide, a skin fade needs a skilled barber and good light.
The top can be any length, from a buzz to a full afro. That is why the skin fade pairs with so many styles, from a short crop to a high top. See our high top fade for the tall version.
Low, mid and high skin fades
The height is where the fade starts. A low skin fade starts near the ear, a mid starts at the temple and a high starts above it.
| Height | Starts at | Best for | Refresh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low | Above the ear | Subtle, office friendly | 2 to 3 weeks |
| Mid | Temple | Everyday, balanced | 2 weeks |
| High | Above the temple | Bold contrast, tall tops | 10 to 14 days |
You can also add a curve behind the ear, which is a drop fade. Our post on the drop fade for Black men explains how that changes the shape. If you want length at the back with short sides, the burst fade mullet is a popular pairing.
Is a low taper fade a skin fade?
Not always. A taper fade can stop at a short guard, like a 1 or 2, and leave a trace of hair at the bottom. A skin fade goes all the way to bare skin.
A low taper fade can be either, depending on how short the bottom goes. If you want a skin fade, say skin or bald, not just fade, or you may get a shadow instead. Our post on the taper versus the fade explains how much hair is left in each.
A blowout taper can also include a skin fade, since the blowout refers to the top and the fade to the sides. The two ideas are independent.
Does a skin fade suit coily and 4C hair?
Yes, and it is often at its best there. The contrast between smooth skin and dense curl gives the cut a crisp, high definition edge.
There are two things to consider. First, razor bumps. Close shaving at the bottom of the fade can lead to ingrown hairs, especially along the neckline. If your skin is prone to them, tell your barber, and ask for the very bottom to be taken to a guard 0 instead of a razor. Second, the contrast shows regrowth faster, so plan on shorter visits.
For bumps and irritation after a close cut, our guide on razor bumps on Black skin covers prevention before cure. If bumps are severe or do not clear, see a dermatologist.
How do you ask for a skin fade?
Say skin fade, then choose the height and the top. Your barber will take care of the blend.
- Say skin fade or bald fade.
- Pick low, mid or high.
- Say how long you want the top, and whether you want it textured, twisted, brushed or flat.
- Choose the neckline, tapered or squared.
- Ask for a line up to finish the hairline.
A fade is $30 at our shop, and a line up is $16. Our fade cut service is where this starts. If you only want the front edges cleaned, ask for the line up on its own.
Skin fade with a beard
A skin fade pairs naturally with a beard. The fade runs from the head down into the sideburns and then into the beard, so the cheek line disappears into the cut.
Done well, the beard looks like part of the haircut. Done badly, there is a visible gap at the sideburn. Our guide on how to fade a beard into the sideburns explains it step by step. We offer a beard trim and sculpt, and the price is quoted when you call.
If you want the whole job in one visit, the Cut and Beard package covers the haircut, line up, beard trim and sculpt and razor beard line.
How do you keep a skin fade sharp?
Refresh it often and look after the skin. The bottom edge is the first thing to go, since it grows back against bare skin.
Wash the scalp normally, moisturize the skin at the edge so it does not look ashy, and keep your hairbrush clean. Sleep on a satin pillowcase or in a bonnet or durag to protect the top and reduce friction on the sides. Skip heavy pomade on the faded area, because it makes the blend look muddy.
Between visits, a line up for $16 brings back the crisp look in a few minutes. Walk ins are welcome seven days a week.
Can you give yourself a skin fade?
It is hard. The blend sits behind the ears and at the back of the head, and bald fades show every mistake.
If you want to try, use a guard 1 and then a guard 2 for the blend, work in small strokes and use two mirrors. Expect a patchy result the first time. Most clients who try it come to us to fix it, and a fix costs more than a fade would have. For something simpler at home, a buzz cut is easier to do on yourself.
Get a skin fade at Lilacroix Barbers
Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd, Laurelton, NY 11413. Call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait, or walk in. We serve Laurelton, Rosedale, Springfield Gardens, St. Albans, Cambria Heights and Queens Village.
Ask for a fade cut and say skin fade. You can find directions on the contact and directions page.
Questions readers ask
What is a skin fade haircut?
It is a fade that goes down to bare skin at the bottom edge, then blends up into longer hair. It is also called a bald fade.
Is a low taper fade a skin fade?
Only if the bottom goes to bare skin. A taper can stop at a short guard and leave a shadow of hair, so say skin when you ask.
Can a blowout taper include a skin fade?
Yes. The blowout describes the top and the fade describes the sides, so you can combine them.
How do I skin fade my own hair?
Use a guard 1 and then a guard 2 to blend, working in small strokes with two mirrors. It is hard to do behind the ears, so most men leave it to a barber.
How often should you get a skin fade?
About every two weeks. A low skin fade can stretch to three weeks, and a high skin fade may need a refresh every ten to fourteen days.