Types of Barber Haircuts and How to Ask for Each One
The main types of barber haircuts are the fade, the taper, the buzz cut, the crew cut, the military cut, the afro and the longer scissor cut. Each one is built from the same few tools, clippers with guards, shears and a razor, and the difference is where the hair gets short and how fast it gets there.
This is our shop's own guide, written for the men and boys who sit in the chair on Merrick Boulevard in Laurelton. You will find the main cuts with prices, how to ask for each one, and short sections on wedding haircuts, rugged fighter cuts, androgynous cuts, athletic cuts and the Ivy League.
What are the main types of barber haircuts?
Think of barber haircuts in four families: fades and tapers, short all over cuts, textured cuts with length on top, and longer cuts. Once you know which family you want, the rest is a guard number and a finish.
| Cut | What it looks like | Price at Lilacroix |
|---|---|---|
| Taper | Hair gets gradually shorter down the sides and the neck, never to skin | $25 |
| Fade | Hair blends from skin or a very short guard up to the length on top | $30 |
| Afro | Full length on top, shaped round or square, clean sides | $30 |
| Buzz cut | One guard length all over | $25 |
| Military haircut | High and tight, induction or regulation | $25 |
| Scissor cut | Cut with shears for a softer, longer shape | $25 |
| Razor cut | Razor finished edges and shape | $25 |
| Long haircut | Length kept and shaped | $25 |
| Line up | Crisp edges at the hairline | $16 |
Every one of these is on our full list of barber services, and the plain men's haircut is the place to start if you are not sure. For a longer look at what the trends are doing right now, our piece on trendy haircuts for men is a good companion.
If you want to compare the styles themselves and not the techniques, men's hairstyles is the wider guide.
Fades and tapers: what is the difference and which suits you?
A taper leaves some hair at the bottom of the cut, a fade takes it down to skin. That is the whole difference, and it changes how the cut grows out and how sharp it looks on day one.
A low taper on Black hair is the most requested cut in Southeast Queens because it grows out gently and looks fine at work, at church and at school. Our guide to the low taper fade for Black men goes through what to ask for. A skin fade, with its bright contrast, is the cut to pick when you want a sharp look and you are fine with booking every two weeks.
Low, mid and high
Where the blend starts is the third choice. A low blend starts just above the ear. A mid blend starts at the temple. A high blend starts up on the head. The low fade versus high fade comparison shows what that looks like on different head shapes.
Curl and coil patterns
On 4C hair, the blend looks cleanest when the barber leaves a little length on top and keeps it even. If you plan to keep an afro, the sides take a fade and the top keeps its fullness. We cover that in more detail in the afro taper fade.
How do you ask for an Ivy League haircut?
Ask for a short, tapered side and back with a top left about one to two inches, cut to a clean shape, and a side part or a brushed forward finish. That is the Ivy League in plain words: a slightly longer crew cut.
The Ivy League is the cut for men who want to look neat without looking military. On straight or wavy hair, the top is combed to the side. On coily hair, the top is kept even and softly shaped, and the part, if you want one, is cut in with the razor. It works for an office, for graduations, for a first job interview and for a quiet confidence on a Sunday.
- Tell the barber the top length in inches, or say about two fingers.
- Ask for a taper on the sides and back, with a number 2 or number 3 at the bottom.
- Ask whether you want a hard part or a natural one.
- Ask for the edges to be lined up, so the shape holds for a week.
The short version of this cut is the crew cut, and our crew cut guide explains how they compare.
What is the best wedding haircut for men?
The best wedding haircut is the one you already know looks good on you, cleaned up three to five days before the day. A brand new cut on the morning of the wedding leaves no room for fixes.
For the groom and the groomsmen, a taper or a fade with a sharp line up works in photos because the edges stay crisp. A short buzz is also a safe choice. Beards should be trimmed and lined at the same visit, so the face looks even.
A good way to handle a group is to book the same day. Call the shop and ask about the wait for several chairs, because walk ins are welcome but a wedding party should call ahead. If you are doing a full prep, ask about the Cut and Beard or the Full Service packages. Both are priced by call, and the Full Service adds a hot towel shave finish and a scalp treatment. Our groom package guide goes through what each one includes.
A faded beard goes well with a clean fade, and the faded beard post shows how to blend them.
Which haircuts suit a rugged, fighter style?
The cuts that read as rugged are short on the sides, textured on top, and paired with a full or heavy stubble beard. Think of a skin fade with a textured top, a buzz cut with a beard, or a short crop with a hard part.
A fighter's haircut has one practical reason behind it: it is easy to keep. Short sides do not get in the way, and a short top needs no product. A number 1 or skin fade on the sides with a number 4 to 6 on top is a classic version, and it works well for men with a strong jaw and a thick beard.
The mullet has come back as a fighter look too, and the modern versions are cut shorter than the old ones. See our guide to the mini mullet haircut for the details. For a smaller change, a burst fade with a beard brings a lot of shape without much length.
A straight razor shave or a beard trim and sculpt finishes the look. Both are by call for pricing, and the straight razor shave is $15 when it is only the shave.
Do androgynous haircuts for men work on Black hair?
Yes. An androgynous cut is about softness and shape, not about a specific length, and coily hair holds soft shapes very well. A tapered afro, a rounded top with short sides, or a shaped long cut are all options.
The important choices are a smooth outline and an even top. A line up around the hairline gives the face a clean frame, and keeping the sides a little longer than a skin fade makes the cut look softer. Hair that is grown to a few inches can be shaped with scissors, which is why a scissor cut at $25 is a popular choice for this look.
If you want to grow length, a long haircut is also on the list and costs $25. Ask for a trim every six to eight weeks to keep the ends healthy, and a shampoo and conditioning in the chair when you want the hair to feel soft. Pricing for that is by call.
What are the best athletic haircuts?
The best athletic haircuts are short, low maintenance and cool under a helmet or a cap. A taper, a buzz cut or a crew cut will do the job, and a line up keeps it neat after practice.
For football, basketball and track
A low taper or a number 2 buzz is easy to keep, and nothing gets in your eyes. Boys who play on school teams in Queens often come in on Friday for a clean cut before the weekend. Our kids cut is $20, and the kids haircut service is made for patient first visits.
For swimmers and runners
A short buzz or a short crop dries quickly and does not need styling. Men who swim might prefer a skin fade, because the short sides do not trap water.
Touch up schedule
Plan a visit every two weeks in season. A line up between full cuts is $16, which is the cheapest way to look ready for game day.
Pick a cut and book at Lilacroix in Laurelton
You do not have to know the name of your cut before you sit down. Tell the barber what you do for work, how much time you want to spend in the morning, and show a photo if you have one. Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, NY 11413, and the number is (718) 749-5800. We are open seven days, from 7:30 AM Monday to Thursday and from 7 AM Friday to Sunday, and we serve Laurelton, Rosedale, Springfield Gardens, St. Albans, Cambria Heights and Queens Village.
Start with a haircut and let the barber help you narrow it down. Find directions under contact and directions, and the Q5, Q86 and Q87 buses stop right outside.
Questions readers ask
What is a men's undercut haircut?
An undercut is short sides and a longer top with a sharp contrast between them. We cover the cut in more detail on the undercut posts on our blog, and it can be done on coily hair with a shorter top.
How long does a men's haircut take?
A simple haircut takes about 20 to 30 minutes, and a fade or a full groom takes longer. Call ahead on busy days to check the wait.
How often should you get a men's haircut?
Every two weeks for a fade, three to four weeks for a taper and four to six weeks for longer cuts. A line up between visits keeps it sharp.
How much should you tip a barber?
Many clients tip 15 to 20 percent for a good cut. Tip in cash if you can, because it goes straight to the barber.
How do you blend a men's haircut?
A barber blends by moving through the guard numbers one step at a time, using the clipper over comb or the lever to soften the line. Blending at home is hard, so most men leave it to the shop.