Men's Hairstyles for Black Men: The Cuts That Work
Men's hairstyles come down to three questions: how short are the sides, how much length is on top, and how much time do you want to spend on it in the morning. Answer those and you can pick from a short list that includes the taper, the fade, the afro, the crop, the buzz cut and the scissor cut.
This is how we see men's hairstyles at Lilacroix Barbers on Merrick Boulevard in Laurelton, where most clients have coily or curly hair and a lot of them are coming in before work or after practice. Below are the styles that work, the one rugged look that gets requested the most, and how to choose by hair type and face shape.
What are the main men's hairstyles?
The main men's hairstyles are short and tapered, short and faded, short all over, medium with texture, and long. Each one starts as a plain men's haircut, and everything else is a variation on one of those five, with a different line up or a different blend.
| Hairstyle | Top length | Upkeep | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low taper | 1 to 3 inches | Every 3 to 4 weeks | $25 |
| Skin fade | Any length | Every 2 weeks | $30 |
| Afro | 3 inches and up | Every 3 to 4 weeks | $30 |
| Buzz cut | 1/8 to 3/4 inch | Every 2 to 3 weeks | $25 |
| Scissor cut | Medium | Every 4 to 6 weeks | $25 |
| Long haircut | Long | Every 6 to 8 weeks | $25 |
For a full guide to how these cuts are made, read types of barber haircuts. For the ones that are being asked for right now, see trendy haircuts for men.
Which short men's hairstyles work best on coily hair?
A low or mid taper, a skin fade and a short crop all work, because coily hair holds a clean shape at short lengths. The cut stays neat for weeks, and the line up gives it an edge.
Taper
The taper is the everyday cut. It leaves hair at the bottom, so it grows out gently. It is the one we recommend for a first time client or a man who goes to work in an office.
Fade
The fade goes to skin and has more contrast. A drop fade is a version where the blend curves down behind the ear, and the drop fade for Black men explains how it sits on a coily head. A fade is $30.
Short curls and crops
If your hair curls, a short curly style is neater than it looks. Our post on short curly hair for men covers the cuts, and a fade cut on the sides keeps it sharp.
What medium and long men's hairstyles can you wear?
Medium and long styles are a scissor cut with a taper on the sides, an afro shaped round or square, and a longer cut grown to the ears or the collar. They need less frequent visits, but more time at home.
The scissor cut is $25, and the barber uses shears to blend the top so the length lies naturally. The long haircut is also $25, and it is about keeping length and shaping it, not taking it off. If you want your length to look soft, a shampoo and conditioning at the shop is a good addition, and the price is by call.
The mullet has come back in a shorter form. Our post on the mini mullet haircut shows how to wear a little length at the back with a neat top.
What is the rugged fighter hairstyle?
The rugged fighter hairstyle is a short, tight cut with a thick beard: skin or low sides, a short top with some texture, and a full beard that is lined at the cheek and the neck. We will not name any one fighter, because the look is a type and not a person.
The idea is that the head is easy to keep and the beard does the talking. Ask for a number 1 or skin fade on the sides, a number 4 to 6 on top, and a beard trim and sculpt with a razor line. The beard work is priced by call at our shop, and the blend between the hair and the beard is the key detail. Our guide to the faded beard explains how to ask for that.
The look works on Black men with full beards, on men with a strong jaw, and on anyone who wants to look serious without a suit. If the beard has gray, a beard dye can even it out.
How do you choose a hairstyle for your face and hair type?
Start with your hair type, because it limits what is possible, and then use your face shape to adjust the height. Coily hair holds shape and height, wavy hair needs a little weight, and fine straight hair needs a short cut.
- Round face: more height on top and tight sides.
- Square face: a rounded top to soften the jaw.
- Oval face: almost anything works, so choose by upkeep.
- Long face: keep the top short and the sides a little fuller.
Hairline matters too. A receding hairline looks fuller with a shorter cut, and a low taper is the safe one. If you are not sure about your hairline, ask your barber what they see and ask for a line up at $16 to frame it.
Whether undercuts are still in is a common question on this subject, and we wrote a separate post, are undercuts out of style.
How much does it cost to keep a men's hairstyle?
A man who gets a taper every three weeks pays $25 each time, about $425 a year. A man who gets a fade every two weeks pays $30 each time, about $780. Add a line up at $16 in between, and the number goes up, so choose the cut by the upkeep you can afford.
The tip is separate. Many clients leave 15 to 20 percent, and our guide to how much to tip a barber explains the usual range.
If you want a more complete groom, the Cut, Cut and Beard and Full Service packages bundle the haircut, line up and beard work, and they are priced by call. They are listed on the groom packages and they save time because everything happens in one visit.
Find your hairstyle at Lilacroix in Laurelton
Bring a picture and tell the barber how much time you want to spend on it. Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, NY 11413, and the number is (718) 749-5800. We open at 7:30 AM Monday to Thursday and at 7 AM Friday to Sunday, so you can get it done before work.
Start with a men's haircut and let the barber help you narrow it down. Check contact and directions for the bus routes.
Questions readers ask
What is the most popular men's hairstyle?
The taper and the fade are the most requested at our shop, because they suit coily hair and grow out well. The afro and the buzz cut are close behind.
How do I know which hairstyle will suit me?
Look at your hair type, your face shape and how much time you have in the morning. A barber can tell you in a minute once they see your hairline.
What do I do if I do not like the cut?
Tell the barber before you leave the chair, because it is easier to adjust right away. Many fixes take only a few minutes.
Can I bring a photo?
Yes, and it helps a lot. A photo shows the length and the blend, and the barber can tell you how it will look on your hair type.
How often should I change my hairstyle?
As often as you like, but most men stay with a cut for years and change the blend or the line up. If you want a bigger change, grow the top for two months first.