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How to Fade a Beard Into the Sideburns

By The Lilacroix barbers · · 2,251 words

Beard Trim in Laurelton, NY

A beard fade is what makes a beard and a haircut look like one decision instead of two. The sideburn is where they meet, and if the hair on your head is at a 1 guard and your beard is an inch long, the sideburn is either a hard step or a smooth blend. Most men in our Laurelton chairs want the blend, and most who try it at home end up with a visible line halfway down the cheek.

The direct answer: start at the sideburn with the same guard as your haircut, step up one guard at a time as you move down the cheek, keep each pass short and overlapping, and stop the fade above the jawline so the beard keeps its weight at the chin. Below is the tool list, the guard numbers, the eight steps in order, the mistakes that leave lines, and the point where it makes more sense to sit in the chair. Our beard trim and sculpt is priced on request, and the Cut and Beard package blends the two for you in one visit.

What a beard fade is

A beard fade is a gradual change in length from the sideburn down into the beard, so there is no visible step between the hair on your head and the hair on your face. The top of the sideburn matches the haircut. The bottom of the cheek matches the beard. Everything in between is blended in small steps.

It is the same idea as a fade on the head, run in the opposite direction. On the head the fade goes from skin at the bottom to length at the top. On the beard it goes from short at the top of the sideburn to full at the chin. If your haircut is a fade at $30 with skin at the sideburn, the beard fade picks up from that skin and builds length downward.

What a beard fade is not: it is not a trimmed beard, and it is not a line up. A trim sets the overall length. A line up sets the edges. The fade is the blend at the sideburn and upper cheek, and you can have it with any beard length from stubble to full.

What you need to fade a beard at home

You need a trimmer with guards, a mirror you can see your profile in, and patience. A second hand mirror helps. Scissors and a comb are useful for the mustache but not for the fade itself.

You do not need a special beard fade tool. The guards do the work. What you cannot buy is the angle, and that is the part the steps below are about.

Guard numbers for a beard fade

Match the top of the sideburn to your haircut, then step up one guard at a time until you reach your beard length. On coily beards the hair stands out from the skin, so each guard reads a touch shorter than it would on a straight beard and you can use bigger jumps.

ZoneGuardLength leftNotes
Top of sideburn (meets the haircut)Same as the haircut, usually 0 to 1Skin to 1/8 inchBlend into the fade or taper on the head
Middle of sideburn1 to 21/8 to 1/4 inchShort overlapping passes, flick the trimmer out
Bottom of sideburn, top of cheek2 to 31/4 to 3/8 inchThe spot where most home fades show a line
Upper cheek3 to 43/8 to 1/2 inchStop the fade here on most beards
Lower cheek, jaw and chin4 to 6 or longer1/2 to 3/4 inch and upFull beard length, not part of the fade

If your beard is short, say a 2 or 3 all over, the fade is only two steps: a 0 or 1 at the top of the sideburn and a 1 or 2 just below it. If your beard is long, the fade still only covers the sideburn and upper cheek. Fading further down thins the beard where you want it fullest.

How to fade a beard, step by step

Work from the top of the sideburn down, short guard first, one guard at a time, both sides at each step. Here is the order.

Beard Trim in Laurelton, NY
The sideburn is where the haircut and the beard have to agree.

Step 1: wash, dry and comb

Trim a clean, dry beard. Wet hair lies flat and looks shorter, and coily hair shrinks a lot when wet, so a fade set on a damp beard looks completely different an hour later. Comb everything down in its natural direction.

Step 2: set the overall beard length

Before any fading, put on the guard that matches the length you want at the chin, say a 5 or 6, and run it over the whole beard. This evens the canvas. If you skip this step, the fade blends into an uneven beard and you cannot tell which lines are the fade and which are the beard.

Step 3: set the neckline and cheek line

Set the edges now, with a bare blade. The neckline sits about two fingers above the Adam's apple. The cheek line is natural or cleaned of strays. Our guide to lining up a beard at home covers both in detail. Setting the edges first means the fade has a frame to sit inside.

Step 4: start the fade at the sideburn

Put on the guard that matches your haircut at the sideburn, usually a 0 or 1. Trim the top inch of the sideburn with upward strokes, pulling the trimmer away from the face as you reach the bottom of that zone. That flick out is what starts the blend.

Step 5: blend between guards

Go up one guard. Trim from where the last guard stopped, overlapping about a quarter inch into the shorter zone, and flick out again at the bottom. Repeat with the next guard. Each pass is short, an inch or so. If you have half guards, use them here. On coily hair a comb pulled through between passes shows you where the step is.

Step 6: blend the beard into the haircut

Now look at the top of the sideburn where it meets the hair on your head. If your haircut has a taper or fade there, the two should already match. If you wear a 2 or 3 on the sides of your head, the sideburn top should be a 2 or 3, not a 0, or you will have a bald gap between the two.

Step 7: stop and compare both sides

Step back to arm's length and look at each profile in the hand mirror. Compare the height where the fade ends on each side using the same reference point, such as the corner of the eye or the top of the ear. Fix the higher side by bringing the lower side up, never by taking the high side higher.

Step 8: clean strays and finish

Remove the guard and clear the strays below the neckline and above the cheek line. Run a comb through, trim anything that sticks out, rinse the face, and put on a little beard oil or moisturizer. Done.

Matching the beard fade to your haircut

The beard fade only works if it agrees with the haircut, and the sideburn is where they negotiate. The rule is simple: the top of the sideburn is the same length as the side of your head at that spot.

With a skin fade or taper

If your head is faded to skin at the sideburn, the beard fade starts at skin and builds length downward. This is the cleanest version and it is what most men on Merrick Blvd with a low taper ask for. The barber runs the taper on the head straight into the beard so the two are one gradient.

With a longer side

If you wear a 3 or 4 on the sides, the sideburn should sit at a 3 or 4 too, and the beard fades up to it rather than down from skin. A common mistake is fading the beard to skin at the sideburn when the hair above it is a 4. That leaves a bald band an inch wide.

With a buzz cut

A buzz at a 2 all over pairs with a beard faded from a 2 at the sideburn to full at the chin. Simple and quick, and it holds for two weeks.

Common beard fade mistakes

Nearly every home beard fade we fix has one of the same six problems. They are easy to avoid once you know them.

Starting with too short a guard

A 0 at the top of the sideburn is right only if the haircut is skin there. Otherwise start one guard below your haircut's side length. You can always go shorter on the next pass.

Visible lines between guards

Lines come from stopping a guard dead instead of flicking out, or from skipping a guard. Overlap each zone by a quarter inch and use half guards if you have them.

Fading too far down the beard

The fade stops at the upper cheek. Taking it to the jaw thins the beard where it should be fullest and makes the face look narrow.

Taking the neckline too high

A neckline on the jaw turns a faded beard into a chin strap. Keep it in the crease under the jaw.

Ignoring the haircut

A beard fade that does not meet the haircut at the same length looks like two separate jobs. Check the sideburn top first.

Chasing perfect symmetry

Faces are not symmetrical. Match the fade heights from a reference point and stop. Chasing the last hair is how both sides end up at the eye.

Fading a coily beard

Coily beard hair makes a beard fade easier in one way and harder in another. Easier because the hair stands away from the skin, so each guard change shows clearly and the blend has texture to work with. Harder because the hair shrinks when wet and springs when dry, so what looks blended with the beard combed down can show a step once the coils settle.

Trim dry, comb out between passes, and check the blend after you have left the beard alone for a minute. If a step appears, run the longer guard over the step with the trimmer tilted so only the corner touches. A sponge or a pick over the lower beard after the fade also helps the longer hair sit evenly against the faded zone.

Razor bumps are the other coily hair issue. A fade done with guards does not touch the skin, so it rarely causes bumps on its own. The bare blade at the neckline and cheek line is where bumps start. Keep those passes light, with the grain, and leave an existing bump alone rather than trimming over it. If bumps keep coming back, see a dermatologist, because recurring bumps on the beard area can be a skin condition that no trimming technique fixes.

When to let the barber do it

Let the barber do the first one. A beard fade is a shape, and once a barber sets it you can maintain it at home with a trimmer for two or three weeks before it needs resetting. Trying to invent the shape from scratch in a bathroom mirror is the hard way.

It also makes sense to go to the shop when your haircut changes. A new fade on the head needs the sideburn matched again, and the barber does both in the same sitting. On our services list the beard trim and sculpt is priced on request, and the Cut and Beard package covers the haircut, the line up, the beard trim and sculpt and a razor beard line together.

OptionPriceBest for
Home touch up with guardsYour trimmer and 15 minutesKeeping a shop fade clean for 2 to 3 weeks
Line up$16Edges only, between full visits
Beard trim and sculptCall for pricingSetting the fade and the shape
Fade (head)$30When the haircut side needs to match
Cut and Beard packageCall for pricingHaircut and beard faded together in one chair

Get your beard faded at Lilacroix Barbers in Laurelton

Bring the beard in and we will set the fade to your haircut. Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, where the Q5, Q86 and Q87 stop at Merrick Boulevard and 233rd Street, with the QM63 and QM65 express buses to Manhattan stopping there too. We are open Monday to Thursday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday 7 AM to 7 PM, and Sunday 7 AM to 5 PM. Walk ins are welcome, or call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait. Beard services and packages are on our services page.

Questions readers ask

What guard do I start a beard fade with?

The same guard as the side of your haircut at the sideburn, usually a 0 or 1 with a fade and a 2 or 3 with a longer side. Then step up one guard at a time down the cheek.

How far down should a beard fade go?

Stop at the upper cheek. Fading to the jaw thins the beard where it should be fullest.

Why does my beard fade have lines in it?

A guard stopped dead instead of flicking out, or a skipped guard. Overlap each zone by about a quarter inch and use half guards if you have them.

Can I fade a short stubble beard?

Yes. With a 2 or 3 beard the fade is just a 0 or 1 at the top of the sideburn and a 1 or 2 below it, blended into the stubble.

How long does a beard fade last?

About two to three weeks with a quick trimmer touch up at home each week. Beard hair grows roughly half an inch a month, which blurs the sideburn blend first.

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