Short Curly Hair Men: Cuts, Guard Numbers and Daily Care
Short curly hair for men is easy to wear once the cut is right: shorter on the sides, enough length on top to show the curl, and a clean edge around the forehead and neck. Whether your curls are loose and wavy or tight and coily like 4C hair, the shape comes from the barber and the shine comes from moisture.
The short answer is to ask for a taper or fade on the sides and keep one to three inches on top, cut with scissors or a longer guard so the curls spring up instead of lying flat. Then keep the hair hydrated and see your barber every two to four weeks.
Which short cuts suit curly hair best?
The best short cuts for curly hair keep a little length on top and tighten the sides. That contrast shows off the curl pattern and keeps the shape from turning into a bush as it grows.
| Cut | Sides | Top | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low taper | Number 1 to 2 at the neck and ears | 2 to 3 inches | Loose curls, easy upkeep |
| Mid fade | Skin to number 2, halfway up | 1 to 3 inches | Tight curls and 4C hair |
| Drop fade | Fade curves behind the ear | Curly top, twist ready | A more styled look |
| Crop | Number 2 to 3 all around | Under 2 inches | Low maintenance |
| Buzz | Same guard all over | None | Zero styling |
If you want to see how the sides and top work together, read the guides on the low taper fade for curly hair and the taper fade with curl patterns and guard numbers. Both go deeper on blowout, sponge and natural styles.
How do you ask for short curly hair at the barber?
Tell your barber three things: how short the sides should be, how much length stays on top and what you want to do with the curls. Everything else follows from those.
- Sides. A number 1 or 2 guard blended up the side is the usual starting point. For a skin fade, say skin at the bottom.
- Top. Give an inch measure, such as one inch for a crop or three inches for a curly top. Say whether you want it cut with scissors so the curls stay springy.
- Edge. Ask for a line up if you want a crisp hairline, which is $16 at our shop.
Wet curls look longer than dry curls. A tight coil can shrink by half an inch or more when it dries, so tell the barber the length you want when it is dry, not wet. A haircut at our shop runs $25, and a fade is $30, so you know the number before you sit down. The haircut service page lists what is included.
Look for a barber who cuts curls dry or works with the curl pattern. A cut that ignores the spring will leave one side lower than the other when your hair springs back.
How do you style short curly hair?
Start with clean, damp hair, add a leave in moisturizer and let the curls do the work. Styling short curls is mostly about hydration and a light touch, not heavy product.
Natural wash and go
Rinse, smooth in a light moisturizer, and let the hair air dry. Good for loose and medium curls.
Sponge for definition
On tight coils, a curl sponge twisted in small circles builds soft coils on top. Do it on damp hair, then let it dry before touching it.
Brush and wave
A soft brush and a sleeping cap can train curls into waves on short hair. This takes a few weeks of daily brushing, and it works best on a short, even cut.
Blowout
Dry the hair with a comb attachment to lift the curl into a fuller, fluffier shape. Keep heat low to protect the hair.
A fresh, trendy look is easy to find. Our guide to trendy hair cuts for men shows what is popular right now and how each one handles curls.
How do you take care of short curly hair?
Keep it moisturized, wash it less often than you think you should and be gentle when you detangle. Curly hair is naturally drier than straight hair because scalp oil travels slowly down a curl.
- Wash two to three times a week with a gentle shampoo, and always follow with conditioner.
- Moisturize daily on damp hair and seal with a light oil or cream if it feels dry.
- Sleep in a satin cap or on a satin pillowcase to cut down on friction and frizz.
- Detangle with fingers or a wide tooth comb, from the ends up.
- Do not scratch a dry scalp. If you see flakes, ask about a scalp treatment.
Our scalp treatment cleanses, exfoliates and refreshes the scalp. It is call for pricing, and it is a good reset if your curls look dull or your scalp feels tight. For flaking that does not clear up, see a dermatologist.
How do you grow out short curly hair without it looking messy?
Grow it out by trimming the sides every few weeks while leaving the top alone. Curls gain height before they gain length, so the top can look big and the sides messy long before the hair hangs down.
For the first two months, keep the edges clean with a line up and a neck cleanup. Let the top grow about half an inch a month. Then ask your barber to reshape it, taking the weight off the sides so the top does not look like a triangle.
If you are growing it for twists or a longer afro, a drop fade or taper fade keeps the sides tight and makes the length on top look intentional. The drop fade for Black men is one option, and the burst fade for curly hair is another. Both leave the back long.
Does a beard go with short curly hair?
Yes. A short curly cut with a trimmed beard or a bit of stubble looks balanced, and the beard gives a rounder face more definition. Match the beard length to the hair length so neither looks heavier than the other.
If your curls are tight, your beard probably is too. Our stubble beard guide covers keeping short growth neat, and the beard trim and sculpt keeps the cheek line and neckline sharp. Tight beard curls can curl back into the skin, so ask your barber to cut with the grain on the neck.
Cutting curls very short at the neck can cause ingrown hairs, so if you get bumps after a cut, ask for a longer guard next time and read our notes on how to fix an ingrown hair.
Get a short curly cut at Lilacroix Barbers in Laurelton
Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, Queens, and we cut curly and coily hair for men and kids across Laurelton, Rosedale, Springfield Gardens, St. Albans, Cambria Heights and Queens Village. A haircut starts at $25 on our haircut list, a fade is $30 and a kids cut is $20.
We are open Monday to Thursday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday 7 AM to 7 PM, and Sunday 7 AM to 5 PM. Walk ins are welcome. Call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait, or see our contact and directions page for the bus stops outside the door.
Questions readers ask
How do you slick back curly hair for men?
Let the hair grow two to four inches on top, apply a little water based pomade or cream to damp hair and comb it back with a wide tooth comb. Tight curls may need a brush and a durag to set the direction.
Do men with curly hair go bald faster?
No. Male pattern hair loss is linked to genetics and hormones, not curl pattern. If you notice thinning or a receding hairline, see a doctor or dermatologist.
How do you straighten curly hair for men?
A blow dryer with a comb attachment on low heat stretches the curl, and a flat iron can straighten it further. Too much heat damages curly hair, so use it sparingly and keep the hair moisturized.
How often should I cut short curly hair?
Every two to four weeks keeps a fade or taper sharp. A longer crop on top can go four to six weeks.
Can kids get a short curly cut?
Yes. We cut curly and coily hair on children and are patient with first haircuts, and a kids cut is $20.