The Burst Fade: The Mohawk Friendly Fade Explained
The burst fade is the fade that curves around the ear like a sunburst and leaves the back of the head long. It is the base of every frohawk and mohawk we cut, and it works just as well under a short crop for men who want a fade with a shape to it.
In one line: a burst fade is a half circle fade around the ear that is shortest at the ear, blends outward in every direction, and fades out behind the ear so the nape and the top keep their length. It is cut as a fade at $30 at Lilacroix Barbers in Laurelton. Here is how it compares to the drop fade, which versions exist, how to ask for it, and how to keep it sharp.
What a burst fade is
A burst fade is a fade centered on the ear. The shortest point, skin or a 0 guard, sits right at the ear, and the hair gets longer in a half circle radiating out from it: up toward the top, forward toward the temple, and back toward the nape. Behind the ear the fade curves upward and runs out, so the back of the head keeps a strip of length down to the neck.
That strip is why the burst is the mohawk fade. A regular fade removes the sides and the back, leaving a mohawk floating on bare skin. A burst leaves the center strip connected all the way down and only clears the area around the ears, so a frohawk or a mohawk looks like one shape from the top of the head to the neck. On a short crop with no mohawk, the burst still reads as a fade with a curve, and the long nape is tapered so it stays tidy.
Burst fade vs drop fade vs mullet taper
All three leave length at the back, and the difference is the direction the fade line travels around the ear.
| Cut | Line around the ear | Nape | Best with | Looks sharp for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Burst fade | Half circle, curves up behind the ear | Kept long, tapered at the edges | Frohawk, mohawk, curly crop | About 2 weeks |
| Drop fade | Level at the side, curves down behind the ear | Faded low | Crop, waves, curls | About 2 weeks |
| Mullet taper | Tapered sides, no curve | Kept long and loose | Long hair at the back | 2 to 3 weeks |
| Low taper | Sideburn and nape only | Tapered 1 inch | Everything else | 2 to 3 weeks |
If you want the back faded low, you want the drop fade. If you want the back long and connected to the top, you want the burst. If you want contrast without any curve, the high taper does that.
Burst fade variations
The burst changes with how high the half circle climbs and what sits on top of it.
- Low burst: the half circle stays small, an inch or so around the ear. Subtle, and the most hair kept.
- Mid burst: the circle reaches the top of the ear. The standard version under a frohawk.
- High burst: the circle reaches the temple and leaves only the center strip. The full mohawk base.
- Burst fade frohawk: two to four inches of coils or an afro strip down the center, burst at the sides, nape tapered.
- Burst fade with a curly crop or twists: a curly or twisted top with the burst as the only fade. The curve shows even under a full top.
- Burst fade buzz cut: a 2 or 3 on top with the burst below. The lowest maintenance version.
- Burst fade with a design: a line or pattern cut into the faded half circle, which has the short hair to hold an edge.
On coily hair the burst is cleanest when the blend finishes at a 2. On looser curls, finish at a 3 so the half circle does not show every guard step.
Choosing by hair type and face shape
The burst suits dense, coily hair and faces that want some height, because the center strip adds height and the curve at the ear adds width at the back.
- 4A to 4C coils: the best match. Dense hair hides the guard steps in the curve and the frohawk holds its shape without product.
- 3A to 3C curls: works, with the blend finishing at a 3 and the strip on top cut with shears.
- Straight or wavy hair: the burst shows more, and the strip needs product to stand.
- Round face: a mid or high burst with a tall strip lengthens the face.
- Long face: a low burst with a short top, so the strip does not add more height.
- Square or oval face: any version.
Thinning at the temples is the one thing to flag, because the burst goes to skin right there. Ask for a 1 at the ear instead of skin and the temple stays covered.
How to ask your barber, and how it is cut
Say burst fade, say how high the half circle should go, say skin or a guard at the ear, and say what happens on top and at the nape. A photo from the side shows the barber the size of the circle you want.
- Low, mid or high burst.
- Skin, a 0 or a 0.5 at the ear. Men who get razor bumps should ask for a 0 guard and no razor.
- The guard at the top of the blend: 2 on coils, 3 on looser curls.
- The top: frohawk, crop, curls or buzz, and the length.
- The nape: tapered and tidy, or left as part of the strip.
The barber starts with the shortest guard at the ear, works outward in a half circle with each guard up, uses the lever to erase the lines, then shapes the strip and tapers the nape. The mistakes to avoid are asking for a drop fade when you mean a burst, taking the circle so high that the strip becomes a thin mohawk you did not want, and skipping the nape taper, which leaves the back looking unfinished.
Styling a burst fade and the products that help
The burst itself needs a drop of oil and nothing else. The strip on top is where the styling goes, and it follows the texture.
A frohawk gets a leave in conditioner on damp hair, a pick to lift it, and a light oil to seal. A curly strip gets a curl cream and a light gel, then air dries. A sponged top gets a cream and a curl sponge in circles. Heavy waxes and clays clump coily hair and flake white into the fade, so keep to water based creams and gels. Wash once or twice a week with a sulfate free shampoo and sleep in a satin lined durag or bonnet so the strip does not flatten to one side.
Maintenance and aftercare
A burst fade looks sharp for about two weeks, because the half circle shows new growth at the ear quickly. A line up at the halfway point keeps the front crisp.
| Visit | When | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Fade (burst fade) | Every 2 weeks | $30 |
| Line up between fades | Week 1 after the cut | $16 |
| Kids burst fade | Every 2 to 3 weeks | $20 |
Between visits, moisturize the strip, oil the fade after washing, sleep in a durag, and keep household clippers away from the circle; a notch in the curve takes two weeks to grow out. If the skin at the ear or the nape bumps after a skin burst, an alcohol free aftershave for two days helps, and bumps that keep coming back are a dermatologist's job rather than the barber's. The fade, the line up and the kids cut are on our services page.
Get a burst fade at Lilacroix Barbers in Laurelton
Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, Queens, and we cut burst fades and frohawks on men and boys every day. Walk ins are welcome, and you can call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait. Hours are Monday to Thursday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday 7 AM to 7 PM, and Sunday 7 AM to 5 PM.
The Q5, Q86 and Q87 stop at Merrick Boulevard and 233rd Street outside, along with the QM63 and QM65 express buses. The fade is $30 and the line up $16; the full list is on our services page.
Questions readers ask
Is a burst fade the same as a drop fade?
No. A burst fade curves around the ear in a half circle and leaves the nape long. A drop fade curves down behind the ear and fades the nape low.
Do I need a mohawk to get a burst fade?
No. The burst works under a short crop, a curly top or a buzz cut. The half circle around the ear is the only thing that changes about the fade.
How long does a burst fade last?
About two weeks before the curve softens at the ear. A $16 line up in week one keeps the front sharp between $30 fades.
Does a burst fade work on 4C hair?
It is one of the best cuts for 4C. Dense coils hide the guard steps in the curve and a frohawk strip holds its shape without product.