Boys' Fade Haircuts: School Ready Cuts for $20
A boy's fade has one job: look clean on Monday morning and still look fine on Friday. The ones that do are not the most dramatic ones. They are the ones cut for his hair texture, his school's rules and how often his parents can get him back in the chair. We cut a lot of boys on Merrick Blvd, from first haircuts to high schoolers who want a design, and the cut that works for the most of them is simpler than the photos online suggest.
The direct answer: for most boys with coily or curly hair, ask for a low or mid taper fade with a 2 guard on top of the fade and a half guard at the bottom, keep the neckline tapered rather than shaved, and come back every two to three weeks. A kids cut is $20 at Lilacroix. The types, the guard numbers, and what to tell the barber are below.
The short answer: a low or mid taper on a 2 guard
Start low. A low or mid taper fade on a 2 guard grows out evenly, keeps the sides neat for school, and does not put a razor on a child's skin. It also leaves the barber room to go higher next time if he wants more contrast.
| Fade type | Where it sits | Guards we use on coily hair | Looks sharp for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Taper | Sideburns and neckline only | 1 guard down to a half guard | 3 weeks |
| Low fade | Just above the ear | 2 guard to a half guard | 2 to 3 weeks |
| Mid fade | Halfway up the sides | 2 guard to a half guard, trimmer at the base | 2 weeks |
| High fade | Near the temples | 3 guard on top down to trimmer | 2 weeks |
| Drop fade | Curves down behind the ear | 2 guard to a half guard | 2 to 3 weeks |
| Burst fade | Half circle around the ear | 1 guard to a half guard | 2 weeks |
| Skin fade | Down to bare skin | Trimmer only, no razor on kids | 10 days to 2 weeks |
The guard numbers matter more on coily hair than on straight hair, because 4C hair shrinks when it curls and a 2 guard reads shorter than you expect. A 1 guard on a boy with tight coils is close to skin at a glance. If your son's hair is looser, 3C or wavy, we usually go one guard higher everywhere so the sides do not disappear.
What a kids fade actually is
A fade is a haircut where the sides and back get gradually shorter toward the bottom, blending from the length on top down to very short hair, or to skin. A kids fade is the same cut with two changes: we leave the lowest point a little longer, and we do not use a straight razor on the edges.
The reason is skin, not style. Children's scalps are sensitive, and coily hair cut below the skin line on the nape is how ingrown hairs start. A tapered neckline with a trimmer looks clean, grows out softly, and does not leave bumps on a kid who then scratches them in class. If a parent wants a skin fade we do it with the trimmer down to its lowest setting, which is close enough to skin that nobody can tell from a foot away.
The other thing that separates a kids fade from a man's is the top. Boys usually keep more hair up top, a short afro, sponge curls or waves, so the fade has to blend into something with volume. That is where the guard choices in the table above come from. For the age by age picture of first cuts and what to expect, our kids cuts page covers it.
The fade types, in plain words
Every fade is defined by where it starts on the head. Lower is softer and lasts longer. Higher is bolder and needs a cut sooner.
Low, mid and high
A low fade starts just above the ear and keeps most of the side hair. A mid fade starts halfway up and gives a clear contrast without looking like a mohawk. A high fade starts near the temples and leaves a block of hair on top with very short sides. For school, low and mid are the safe ones. High fades look great for a week and then the grow out is obvious.
Taper
A taper is the lightest version. Only the sideburns and the neckline get faded, and the rest of the sides stay one length. It is the cut for a boy whose school has strict rules, for a first fade, or for a parent who can only get him in once a month. We wrote a full comparison in the taper versus the fade on kids' hair.
Drop and burst
A drop fade curves down behind the ear instead of running straight across, which follows the shape of a round head well. A burst fade is a half circle around the ear with the back left longer, and it is the one boys ask for when they want a short mohawk or a frohawk on top. Our burst fade guide explains the curve. Both are fine for school as long as the top stays tidy.
Tops that work with coily hair
The fade is the frame. The top is the picture, and on coily hair the top has a few natural options that need almost nothing in the morning.
- Short afro or a 3 to 4 guard on top. The easiest. A pick in the morning and it is done.
- Sponge curls. A 4 or 5 guard on top, then a curl sponge in circles for a minute. Popular from about age 8 up.
- Waves. A 1 or 2 guard on top with a brush every day and a durag at night. Only for boys who will actually brush.
- Hard part. A line shaved into the side to mark a part. Looks sharp for a week, then needs a touch up.
- Designs. A simple line or two near the fade. We keep them small on younger kids and check the school's rules first.
For a boy with looser curls, a 3C or wavy pattern, a curly top on a low fade with a 3 guard at the top of the fade is the version that does not frizz by lunchtime. Tell the barber whether he picks, brushes or does nothing in the morning. The right top is the one he will actually maintain.
Tips for parents: first cuts, school rules and what to say
Bring a photo, know the school's rules, and tell us how often you can come back. Those three things decide the cut more than anything else.
For a first haircut, a taper on a 3 or 4 guard is the gentle start. We are patient with first haircuts and we will let a nervous kid sit on a parent's lap, hold the clippers to hear them, and take breaks. A simple cut the first time builds trust for the fade later.
For school, a low or mid fade with a tapered neckline passes almost every dress code we have seen in Southeast Queens. Designs and very high skin fades are where some schools draw a line, so ask before he asks us. For picture day or a special event, plan the cut three to five days before so the fade settles and any trimmer marks on the skin fade out.
What to say to the barber: the fade height, the guard on top, and whether the neckline is tapered or straight. Something like a low fade, a 2 on top of the fade, keep the curls on top, tapered neck. If you do not know the guards, say how long you want the top in fingers, and we will translate.
Keeping it sharp: every two to three weeks
A boys fade on coily hair looks its best for about two weeks and acceptable for three. After that the sides catch up to the top and the fade turns into a short haircut.
| Service | Price | How often |
|---|---|---|
| Kids cut (fade included) | $20 | Every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Line up between cuts | $16 | At the one to two week mark if needed |
| Haircut (older teens) | $25 | Every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Fade (older teens) | $30 | Every 2 weeks |
At home, a wash once or twice a week, a leave in or light moisturizer on damp hair, and a pick or brush in the morning keep the top from drying out. Skip hard gels on coily hair, since they flake and the school sees white dust by second period. A durag or a satin pillowcase at night keeps waves and sponge curls from flattening.
If mornings are tight, we open early. Monday to Thursday the doors open at 7:30 AM, and Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 7 AM, which is how a lot of families get a cut in before school or before Saturday practice. The details are in our post on being an early morning barber in Queens. Every cut on this page is on our full services list.
Bring him to Lilacroix Barbers in Laurelton
Kids cuts are $20 and first haircuts get all the patience they need. Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, where the Q5, Q86 and Q87 stop at Merrick Boulevard and 233rd Street. We are open Monday to Thursday 7:30 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday 7 AM to 7 PM, and Sunday 7 AM to 5 PM. Walk ins are welcome, or call (718) 749-5800 to check the wait. Kids cuts, fades and line ups are on our services page.
Questions readers ask
What fade is best for a boy with 4C hair?
A low or mid taper fade with a 2 guard at the top of the fade and a half guard at the bottom. It grows out evenly, keeps the neckline off the skin, and holds for two to three weeks.
Can a boy get a skin fade?
Yes, but we do it with the trimmer at its lowest setting rather than a razor, and we taper the neckline. A child's scalp bumps easily when coily hair is cut below the skin.
How old should a boy be for his first fade?
Whenever he can sit still for the clippers, often around three or four. We usually start with a simple taper on a 3 or 4 guard and go to a full fade once he is used to the chair.
How long does a kids fade last?
About two weeks at its sharpest and three weeks before the sides grow into the top on coily hair. A $16 line up in between stretches it.