How to Give Yourself a Buzz Cut, Step by Step
To give yourself a buzz cut, you need a pair of clippers with guards, a mirror, a clean towel and about twenty minutes. Start with the longest guard, work against the direction of growth, then step down one guard at a time. Do not touch the hairline, the neckline or the beard line with anything but a trimmer, and take your time.
Barbers at Lilacroix in Laurelton fix home buzz cuts every week, so this is the practical version with the mistakes we see most, plus how to grow a buzz out when you are ready to let it go. If you would rather skip the work, we do a buzz cut for $25.
How do you give yourself a buzz cut?
Work in five steps: prep, a long guard first, the sides and back, the top, then the edges. The long guard first rule is what keeps a home buzz cut from turning into a bald spot.
- Wash and dry your hair. Clippers pull on damp or oily coils, and they cut unevenly.
- Put a towel around your neck and set a mirror behind you so you can see the back.
- Start with a number 4 or higher guard, even if you want to go shorter. Run the clippers from the front to the back on the top, and from the bottom up on the sides.
- Check the length. If you want it shorter, drop one guard and go again.
- Use the bare trimmer for the neckline and ears only. Leave the hairline to a barber.
The pace is slow, and that is on purpose. A guard can only take hair off, it cannot put it back. Our post on cutting hair with clippers at home lists the mistakes that cost the most, and it applies to buzz cuts too.
Which guard number should you pick?
Pick the guard from the table, and then go one number longer for your first try. You can always go shorter the next day.
| Guard | Length | Look |
|---|---|---|
| Number 1 | 1/8 inch | Very short, scalp shows |
| Number 2 | 1/4 inch | Short, soft scalp shadow |
| Number 3 | 3/8 inch | Even and easy |
| Number 4 | 1/2 inch | Full, textured buzz |
| Number 6 | 3/4 inch | Short crop |
For coily and 4C hair, a number 2 to 4 gives a clean look that holds shape. Wavy hair may want a number 1 or 2 so the waves show and brush well. Our post on buzz cut guard numbers shows what the 4, 7 and 12 look like.
What mistakes should you avoid at home?
The big three are cutting too short on the first pass, going against the grain on a sensitive neck, and trying to fix the hairline yourself. All three leave marks that last until the hair grows back.
Skipping the guard
If the guard falls off, the clippers take the hair to the scalp, and you cannot undo that. Check that the guard clicks in before every pass.
Going against the grain on a bumpy neck
If you get razor bumps, go with the grain on the neck and avoid pressing hard. Our post on razor bumps on Black skin explains why the neckline is the first place they show up.
Chasing a perfect line
The hairline is the one place where a barber has an advantage, because the barber can see the front. If you want a crisp edge, book a line up for $16 after your home cut.
If you have a receding hairline, see why shorter looks fuller before you pick your guard.
How do you grow out a buzz cut?
Stop cutting the top, keep the neckline and ears trimmed, and give it eight to twelve weeks. The hardest part is the middle stage, when the sides look puffy before the top catches up.
A taper is the best friend of a buzz that is growing. It keeps the sides short while the top gets longer, and it makes the whole thing look like a choice. Ask for a low taper and tell your barber you are growing the top out.
What to expect
- Two weeks: the shape holds, edges fuzz up.
- Four weeks: the top fills in, the cut looks soft.
- Eight weeks: you can shape it, and a taper makes sense.
- Twelve weeks: enough length for a fade with a top, or a short afro.
We wrote out the whole timeline in how long a buzz cut takes to grow back, including what 4C hair does.
When should you leave it to a barber?
Leave it to a barber, and book a buzz cut in the chair, when you want a fade, a military cut or a sharp line, or when you are going to be photographed. A barber has a trimmer, a razor and an angle you cannot get alone.
The military styles, high and tight, induction and regulation, depend on exact blending, and they cost $25 at our shop. Read our military haircut guide to see what the three cuts are. A fade at $30 is the next step up.
A scalp that is dry or flaky benefits from a treatment, because a buzz cut leaves nothing to hide it. Ask about a scalp treatment while you are there, priced by call. For a first time buzz on a child, our barbers are patient, and the kids cut is $20.
How do you take care of your scalp after a buzz cut?
Rinse, moisturize and protect. A buzz cut puts the scalp in the open, and coily hair that was covered before now sees sun, wind and cold air.
After the cut, rinse off loose hairs with cool water and pat the scalp dry. Use a light, unscented moisturizer on the skin, not a heavy grease that clogs the pores. In summer, put sunscreen on the scalp if you will be outside for more than a few minutes, because the skin there burns easily and many men forget it.
If you notice white flakes, itching or tight skin, do not scratch. That is usually dryness or dandruff, and a shampoo and conditioning visit can help, as can a scalp treatment that cleanses and exfoliates. Both are priced by call, and your barber can tell you which one fits. If you get red bumps around the neckline, stop shaving that area for a few days and let the skin settle.
Finally, wash your clipper guards and your pillowcase. Old oil and hair on both can cause breakouts along the hairline, and it takes one wash to fix it.
Get your buzz cut done in Laurelton
If the home cut did not go the way you planned, we can fix it in one visit, and a buzz cut is $25. Lilacroix Barbers is at 232-12 Merrick Blvd in Laurelton, NY 11413, and the number is (718) 749-5800. We are open seven days, from 7:30 AM Monday to Thursday and from 7 AM Friday to Sunday, and the Q5, Q86 and Q87 stop right outside.
Book the buzz cut and ask for a clean edge. For hours and directions, see contact and directions.
Questions readers ask
What is the easiest guard to start with?
A number 3 or 4 is the easiest, because it leaves enough hair to hide small mistakes. You can step down to a number 2 once you see the shape of your head.
Should I buzz my hair wet or dry?
Dry. Wet hair clumps and the clippers cut it unevenly, and coily hair stretches when it is wet and then shrinks back.
Can I give a buzz cut to someone else?
Yes, and it is easier than doing your own back. Use the same longest guard first rule and go slowly around the ears.
How do I clean up after a buzz cut at home?
Brush the hair off your neck, rinse with cool water and moisturize your scalp. A shower right after keeps the cut hairs from itching.
How often should I redo a home buzz cut?
Every two to three weeks for a number 2 or 3, and every week or two for a number 1. Longer guards can wait a little more.